April 2017
WATER PRESSURE VS. WATER FLOW
By: Gary Gramling
CREIA Certified Inspector
Recently, a friend asked me if I would check the water pressure at his home. His complaint was that there was very low flow of water at his bathroom shower. So, I stopped by with my water pressure gauge which screws onto a hose bib at the outside of the house. The pressure tested at 75 pounds per square inch (psi). The California Plumbing Code requires that water pressure be not less than 15 psi and not more than 80 psi. Most plumbers that I’ve talked with recommend that the pressure generally be at 55 to 65 psi. Within the home inspector community, the standard is generally between 40 psi and 80 psi. So, my friend’s house had proper water pressure under any of the widely used standards.
The reason that water pressure is regulated to not exceed 80 psi is that more pressure can lead to early failure and leaks of plumbing components such as water fittings at appliances (water heaters, washing machines, dishwashers). Water controls such as angle stops (water shutoffs at sinks and toilets) may also prematurely fail with high water pressure.
Water companies are not liable for damages resulting from supplying water at excessive pressure. Builders are responsible for ensuring that the pressure of the water entering the home is correct. When it comes to resales, the issue is negotiable between the parties.
After checking the water pressure,, we went inside my friend’s house and ran the water at the shower. We were looking at functional water flow. Water flow is only partially related to water pressure. It is also impacted by the size of the water piping, the type and age of the piping; and, the condition of the fixture.
In this instance, the other faucets in the bathroom seemed to have good flow; and, the tub faucet had what appeared to have good flow. But, when I pulled the diverter handle at the faucet, the flow from the showerhead was low. Looking at the faucet, the faucet was still running. This was, most likely from a calcium build up that was keeping the diverter from working properly and providing a good flow to the showerhead. From my experience, this is pretty common. Sometimes the buildup can be removed by using a proper calcium remover. More frequently, the faucet and diverter need to be replaced. Depending upon individual skills, this may be repaired by DIY, a skilled handyman or a licensed plumber.
Sometimes though, the diverter is working properly but the shower flow is still weak. This may need to be studied and repaired by a licensed plumber. The most likely culprit is a bad, in the wall, mixing valve that controls flow to the showerhead. Most of the time, a qualified plumber can make this repair easily. Usually involving soldering the fittings is required. Not really a DIY project..
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